Sailing Adventure: From Mystic to Gloucester and Beyond

Cape Cod Canal rail bridge.

Departing Mystic, we headed east to go north eventually. We moored for the evening at the entrance to the Cape Cod Canal. At sun-up, we waited 30 minutes for the huge rail bridge to operate before being cleared to depart. Vessels over 55 feet are supposed to notify port control. We forgot, and the reminder was delivered in a polite New England manner. Be cautious when transiting this useful shortcut; the tide creates endless whirlpools, and it must be running in your direction.

Discovering Provincetown

The exit from Cape Cod is at Sandwich; the entire coast showcases a roll call of English towns and ports. After a short hop northeast, we arrived in Provincetown, the first landing place for the Pilgrim Fathers. The anchorage was filled with a sea of mooring buoys, so we dropped anchor outside the breakwater. We hailed the harbormaster to confirm it was safe for anything other than a southwesterly storm. It was Gay Pride week, and the place was bursting with color!

Heading to Gloucester, Massachusetts

The next morning, we departed early for Gloucester, taking advantage of the seasonally favorable weather. A steady afternoon run led us in search of anchorage. However, the same problems persisted in a sea of mooring buoys, all too small for our 66-tonne vessel. Under the lee of Ten Pound Island light, we eventually dropped anchor at 8m (25'), pulling hard astern to ensure our large Rocna was well buried. This was our third anchorage under a lighthouse, and despite appearances, it wasn't as scary as it sounds.

We used our time in Gloucester to explore and perform a weld repair on a broken railing. Gloucester is a working port featuring fish quays and ice houses, alongside its historic and arts districts. The vibe is a great New England working-class atmosphere. Floating eye candy in the harbor provided plenty of entertainment throughout the day. Lobster is plentiful, and the bars are filled with locals who always have a tale to tell. We thoroughly enjoyed Gloucester, even staying an extra day. One of the local tour guides mentioned us as they sailed their group around, and we received a visit from a genuine Gloucester fisherman practicing their rowing skills.

Exploring the Shoal Islands

An afternoon's run due north takes you to the Shoal Islands. This area features a set of lethal rocks jutting into the Atlantic, located 7 nautical miles off Portsmouth. With only a few permanent residents, the islands include an enormous hotel now run as a retreat for the artistic, religious, or fitness-minded. This hotel does not serve alcohol, so we opted for a long walk around what was accessible. The scenery reminded me of childhood holidays spent on the Llyn Peninsula in Wales. It is both bleak and beautiful, rocky, storm-battered, yet resilient.

A strong westerly blew all night, violently rattling our anchor chain. The morning was no better. We backed off our mooring against a 20 to 25-knot wind in a close lee shore. Keeping the bow to the wind was difficult in such tight anchorage. Understanding when the rudders grip, the dynamics of inertia, and predicting how the vessel will swing became crucial. This was a first for me on the helm; those rocks were close and unforgiving, but valuable lessons were learned.

Battling Wind Force 8 and Rising at Biddeford

Departing the Shoal Islands, we headed north towards Kennebunkport. The bay had no shelter from the strong westerly wind, and a good swell was running, which made it a no-go. A further 10 nautical miles north lies Wood Island Light, surrounded by rocks that offer shelter in all directions.

As the barometer fell, we faced winds of 30, 35, and then 40 knots. Although the confused swell remained moderate, we pulled into the lee of Wood Island. Suddenly, we were hit by a brutal 55-knot wind, rocking us more than 20 degrees with a strong weather helm. We were in a precarious position.

With a firm grip on the wheel, both engines powered up, and a minor prayer to the sailing gods, we managed to swing the stern downwind, entering another confined anchorage. We dropped both anchor and 40 meters of chain swiftly. As we drifted back, the anchor dug in, halting our movement. We spent the rest of the afternoon battling the wind. This was the strongest wind we had encountered so far, reaching Force 9 to 10. Conditions were terrible, so we kept engines and steering on standby, closing the beer fridge until things improved. By 7 PM, the barometer was rising, the winds moderated, and we found ourselves anchored under another lighthouse (Wood Island)!

Regards to all and safe travels,

Chris Leigh-Jones

What AI Told Me About Gloucester

Gloucester, Massachusetts, claims the distinction as America's oldest seaport. Founded in 1623, it was established by the Englishmen from the Dorchester Company who created the first fishing port in the country. For more information, check out this link.

Films Made in the Town

"The Perfect Storm" (2000) - Based on Sebastian Junger's best-selling book, this gripping drama tells the true story of the Andrea Gail, a fishing vessel caught in the devastating 1991 Perfect Storm.

"CODA" (2021) - This Academy Award-winning film, not only filmed in Gloucester, also features a soundtrack by the Gloucester-based band, Hozier. Director Sian Heder chose Gloucester for its picturesque, quintessential New England, working-class vibe.

"Captains Courageous" (1937) - (One of my favorites) This classic MGM film, starring Spencer Tracy, was based on Rudyard Kipling's novel about a spoiled rich boy who learns valuable life lessons aboard a Gloucester fishing schooner.