Violent Winds On Arrival, a Voyage from Mystic to Biddeford

Cape Cod Canal rail bridge.

Departing Mystic, we headed east to go north (eventually). Moored for the evening at the entrance to the Cape Cod Canal; at sun-up, a 30-minute wait for the huge rail bridge to operate before being cleared to depart. Vessels over 55 feet are supposed to notify port control; we forgot, and the reminder was delivered in a polite, New England manner. Pick your moments when transiting this useful shortcut; the tide creates endless whirlpools, and it had better be running in your direction.

Provincetown

The exit from Cape Cod is at Sandwich; the entire coast is a roll call of English towns and ports. A short hop northeast, and we're in Provincetown, the first landing place for the Pilgrim Fathers and all that followed. The anchorage was a sea of mooring buoys, so we dropped outside the breakwater, hailing the harbormaster to confirm that it was safe for anything other than a southwesterly storm. It was Gay Pride week, and the place had no lack of color!

Gloucester Massachusettes

The next morning, we departed early, headed for Gloucester, taking advantage of some seasonally great weather. A steady afternoon's run saw us arrive in search of an anchorage. The same problems persist in a sea of mooring buoys, all too small for our 66-tonne vessel. Under the lee of Ten Pound Island light, we eventually dropped anchor at 8m (25'), pulling hard astern to make sure our large Rocna was well buried. This is our third anchorage under a lighthouse, and it is not as scary as it sounds.

We used our time in Gloucester for more exploring and to perform a weld repair on a broken railing. It is a working port featuring fish quays and ice houses, along with its own historic and arts districts. A great New England working-class vibe. Floating eye candy in the harbor most of the day for those interested. The lobster is plentiful, and the bars are full of locals, always with a tale to tell. We thoroughly enjoyed Gloucester, staying an extra day. We even got a mention from one of the local tour guides who sailed their flock directly around us and a visit from a genuine Gloucester fisherman out practicing their rowing skills.

Shoal Islands

An afternoon's run due north will take you to the Shoal Islands. A lethal set of rocks jutting out into the Atlantic 7NM off Portsmouth. With few permanent residents, save for an enormous hotel now run as a retreat for the artistic, religious, or yoga-inclined. The hotel served no alcohol, so we settled for a long walk around what was walkable. It reminded me of childhood holidays in Anglesea or the Llyn Peninsula in Wales. Bleak, rocky, storm-battered but standing firm. A strong westerly blew all night, violently snatching the anchor chain. The morning was no better, and we backed off our mooring against a 20/25KN wind on a close lee shore. Keeping her bow to the wind was a struggle in the tight anchorage. Know when the rudders will grip, understand inertia, and where she will swing about. That's a first for me on the helm; those rocks were close and unfriendly, but that's also where lessons are learned.

Wind Force 8 and rising, anchoring at Biddeford

Departing the Shoal Islands, we headed north towards Kennebunkport. The bay there has no shelter from a westerly wind and would see a good swell running, so that's a no-go. A further 10 nautical miles north is Wood Island Light, a set of rocks that offer shelter in all directions. With the barometer falling, we saw 30, 35, and then 40 kN winds in our way, though the confused swell remained moderate.

Pulling into the lee of Wood Island, we were hit with a brutal 55-knot wind, rocking us over more than 20 degrees with a strong weather helm. Bernoulli got us. Hang on, wheel hard over, both engines powered up, a minor prayer, then her stern swung downwind, and we were in another rather confined anchorage. The anchor and 40m of the chain were both dropped post-haste. As we were blown astern, that large anchor again dug firmly, yanking us to a stop. We continued to windmill for the remainder of the afternoon. This was the strongest wind we had seen so far, Force 9 -10, not nice. Engines and steering remained on standby, and the beer fridge was firmly shut until conditions improved towards the evening. By 19:00 hours, the barometer was rising, the winds moderated, and we found ourselves under a lighthouse again (Wood Island)!

Regards to all and safe travels,

Chris Leigh-Jones

What AI told me about Gloucester:

Gloucester, Massachusetts, claims the distinction as America's oldest seaport. Founded in 1623 when Englishmen from the Dorchester Company established the country's first fishing port.

Films made in the town:

"The Perfect Storm" (2000) - Based on Sebastian Junger's best-selling book, this gripping drama tells the true story of Andrea Gail, a fishing vessel caught in the devastating 1991 Perfect Storm. 

"CODA" (2021) - This Academy Award-winning film was not only filmed in Gloucester, but also features a soundtrack by the Gloucester-based band, Hozier. Director Sian Heder chose Gloucester for its picturesque, quintessential New England, working-class vibe.

"Captains Courageous" (1937) - (One of my favorites) This classic MGM film, starring Spencer Tracy, was based on Rudyard Kipling's novel about a spoiled rich boy who learns life lessons aboard a Gloucester fishing schooner.